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Domaine Jean Grivot 1998-2008 Tasting
An interesting evening, organised by the Hong Kong Wine Society, a tasting of 12 Grivot reds BLIND:Grivot Vosne Romanee Les Beaux Monts 2007Grivot Vosne Romanee Village 2008 (Village)Grivot Chambolle Musigny La Combe d’Orveaux 2001Grivot Chambolle Musigny La Combe d’Orveaux 2008Grivot Vosne Romanee Les Beaux Monts 2008Grivot Vosne Romanee Les Brulees 2003Grivot Nuits St Georges Les Boudots 2004Grivot Nuits St Georges Pruliers 2007Grivot Clos de Vougeot 2001 (Grand Cru)Grivot Vosne Romanee Les Brûlées 1999Grivot Vosne Romanee Les Chaumes 2001Grivot Nuits St Georges Roncieres 2003
Amongst the 12, there is one generic village and one grand cru. Can we identify which is which?
The Grivot Vosne Romanee village was relatively easy to be identified by the group. It is meaner and leaner, with stalky tannins that stand out. A charming, fruity nose, what is expected of Grivot. The intensity, character, and dynamic, however, fall short of the other wines in the fleet.
The grand cru Clos de Vougeot did come out first in the consolidated total ranking by our group of experienced tasters. It has an medium plus intensity of earthy, sweet spices, incense, dark berries. Similar lively intensity on the palate (rich but not overly powerful), good structure, well-rounded tannins, strong acidic backbone and a long, juicy finish.
Personally, I ranked the Clos de Vougeot second, after the Grivot Vosne Romanee Les Brûlées 1999. Aux Brûlées or Les Brûlées is considered amongst one of the best of Vosne Romanee’s premier cru vineyards (along with Malconsorts, Suchots, and Beaux Monts). Aux Brûlées has two sides, a north-east facing plot and a south facing plot. Grivot is on the north-east facing plot along with Leroy and Liger-Belair. The 1999 Grivot has benefited from a graceful aging. Attractive bouquets of red fruits and flowers. Lively, rich flavors on the palate, integrated tannins, followed by a long delicious finish. The Brûlées 2003 also ranked quite high. Sweet notes on the nose reflects its vintage character.
It is never easy differentiating the premier cru appellations, especially with mixed vintages. Few other comments below:
La Combe d’Orveaux can be often confusing, with both a village and a premier cru appellation. Two distinctly different climates — the 1er cru plot is located on a southeast facing slope south of Les Petits Musigny on the slope, sharing a similar climat as Musigny. In fact, a small plot of La Combe d’Orveau owned by Jacques Prieur was promoted to Musigny Grand Cru status in 1929 and in 1989. Grivot’s plot lies in the village, on the west side of the village near Flagey-Echezeaux. Unexpectedly, the 2001 La Combe d'Orveau is more elegant and balanced than the 2008 whose tartness stands out. 2001 and 2008 are two challenging vintages. Under-ripeness is the main danger for the 2001 vintage, where only grand cru sites benefits from the orientation and altitude to cultivate fully ripe grapes. 2008, on the hand, is a cool, wet, miserable vintage that is miraculously saved by the north wind in the final weeks, producing wines of good quality.
Three different Nuits St Georges premier crus from three different vintages. Quite hard to compare. They all show some common characteristics of Nuits St George — earthy, plumy, while not silky, there is definitely weight and a supporting structure. Les Pruliers means plum trees, commonly found through Nuits St Georges. The 2004 Boudots is earthy and quite closed upfront; the 2007 Pruliers is refreshing, fruity, chewy and not overly muscular. Of the three, I like the Roncieres the least. Lacking essence, oak dominates its character; harsh finish, missing purity of fruit.Compared to the neighbouring Nuits St George, the Vosne Romanee is the prettier sister, offering more red fruits and elegance. Les Chaumes, 6.46 hectare, once a mediocre premier cru has increased its quality in recent vintages. Locating at the bottom of the slope with deeper soil, the 2001 has more spices, weight, oak character, and darker fruits than the rest of the Vosne Romanee premier crus. Les Beaux Monts, over 11 hectares, is considered one of the larger plots in Vosne Romanee. Menthol, raspberries, lively red fruits notes on both the 2007 and 2008 vintage; Both sharing classic vosne romanee notes. On the palate the 2007 is greener than the 2008. Medium length. Les Brûlées I have mentioned earlier, both vintage 2003 and 1999 are amongst the stars of the night!
June 1, 2015
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